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WHAT IS DART AND HOW ARE USED IN PATTERN MAKING?


You who fell into this post, probably wanting to know more about dart, right?


So I'm going to make this content as didactic and easy as possible, let's go:


What is dart?


The definition of the dart is as follows: The dart is like a pleat sewn on the wrong side, which gets narrow until it disappears, and its function is to eliminate slacks, adjusting the clothes to the body.


What is the function of the dart, or rather why should we make the dart?


The dart also has the function of giving clothes a good fit. And for that it is essential that you understand the shapes of the body.


The body has curves, as we have the shoulders, the back, the bust, the waist and also the hips, and when we work with the flat fabric, we need to make the darts so that this fabric is adjusted to the body.


When working with elastic fabrics, which are knits in general, the brushes are not necessary, as the fabric stretches and thus contours the body, (click and see this video on knitting draping to understand better)


In the case of our flat fabric, that is, fabric without elasticity, we need to understand about the brushes, as we will always work with them in this case.


What pattern methods can we use to transfer the darts?


You can use traditional flat pattern, cad/cam pattern or draping.


In flat pattern, it is possible to transpose dart using two methods: the pivot method and the clipping method.


The study of dart variations through draping helped me a lot, because after I visualized in the draping how the dart is formed and how we transfer it, everything started to make a lot of sense and helped me to understand better even the flat pattern.


By understanding the basic concept of transfers, you will understand why they are important and also where you can transfer or eliminate them, because you know that you will always have to work with the brushes, that is, this volume of fabric.


But the cool thing is that you don't have to work it always in the same way, since there are countless possibilities to work with them, and it's exactly these various possibilities that transform an outfit, leaving the piece with a sophisticated and creative air, depending on how you will work.


Once you understand the basics of transfers, you can turn them into cutouts, pleats and even drapes.


This is the magic of dart and pattern!


And as I said, the best way to study them is here in the draping, because then you will understand in the 3D model, that is, in the body itself, how the brushes appear and what you can do with them.


I have a super explanatory video teaching this transfer, I'll leave the link here and I hope this content helps you understand a little more about dart. In this video I show all transfers in practice, click here!


What types of different types of dart manipulation?


The darts can be positioned in any region of the body, the most common are:


Traditional dart, which we call fundamental dart in pattern

Dart on armhole and bust

Dart at the waist and its variations, such as the Dior dart.


That is the dart on the side can be called French dart or Dior dart, as Christian Dior used to use this dart in his models. It is a dart that values ​​the female body, and is often used in dresses and corsets.


How to set the size of a dart?


Another advantage of the draping dart! There is no right or wrong size of dart here, it automatically appears before your eyes. Just pin the fabric!


Still about transfers, it's important that you understand that there are no rules on how to use brushes, especially here at draping, where we have freedom of creation! So take advantage of this knowledge and create different possibilities and free yourself through draping.


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