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TIPS AND HACKS FOR DRAPING PATTERNS



I know you guys love these quick draping tips, don't you?


So, taking advantage of this, I've separated some little secrets here that will help you when making molds using draping, that is, three-dimensional modeling! Come on:



1- Fabric


The choice of fabric that you will make of canvas is extremely important, so choose a fabric that has the same weight, fit and texture as the final fabric you will use. If the final piece is denim, choose a raw cotton with a similar weight, if the final fabric is fluid, choose a raw cotton with an appropriate weight.


I always like to use percale when I'm going to simulate fluid fabrics, because the fit is very similar, since the percale doesn't have that characteristic gum of raw cotton. Those who follow me on youtube tutorials know this tip, because whenever I'm going to make a model with a more "light and festive" look I use a percale or tricoline.


The mesh is the same process, when you are going to draping the mesh, you should look for a mesh that is similar, but cheaper than the mesh that you will use in the final piece, because some characteristics of the mesh do not interfere with the draping, which is the case of special meshes, with antibacterial and UVA/UVB protection.


2- Fabric thread


It is important that you always put the same thread direction that you will use at the end of the piece. If in draping you use the bias, the final piece must also be on the bias, for example.


We usually use straight wire to make the patterns, so it's important to always be aware of this important detail. That's why in French draping there is all the rigor when marking the canvas.


In the case of bias, which is a sense of thread that values ​​certain pieces, as in the case of clothes with fluid drapes, it is important to know how to use this resource correctly.


Oh, and in case you're a beginner and don't know what bias is yet, I'll explain it quickly: in bias cutting instead of cutting your fabric in the usual vertical or horizontal direction that you would normally use, you will cut at 45 degrees for the weft of the fabric, with that the fabric becomes slightly elastic, right?!


3- Structures


You can add structures such as cups and shoulder pads to achieve the final effect you want in the piece, in fact this trick is widely used in haute couture ateliers.


When you are making a suit or some special piece that needs volume on the shoulders, you can place the shoulder pad on the mannequin and model over it. And in this case you can add as many shoulder pads as you need. I already made a suit where I used two felt shoulder pads, to give the volume I would like.


The same happens with blouses and special tops, you can place the cup on the mannequin and after modeling on top, this way you will ensure that the model has the anatomical shape of the bust.


So, did you like the tips? If you want to know more about the technique, be sure to follow the free tutorials I do on my channel and also on my instagram profile, where I put tips and content there too!



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