Have you ever stopped to think why plus size pattern is a complex topic?
pattern in general has some particularities and plus size is no different, because bodies are not the same.
Ah, but before continuing, I think it's important to clarify what plus size is, where the term came from and what is considered a plus size size!
The term plus size was created by North Americans to define the size of model clothes above the standard that was sold in stores. The word plus size means "plus size". Today is considered plus size the size above 44. Yes, I also think it's absurd, but they are the "determinations" of the fashion industry.
Well, I think it's important to add that I've already had very large fluctuations in my weight and when it happened I was the type of person who accumulated fat in all areas of the body: abdomen, arms, legs... abdominal, others in the breeches and legs and so on. Therefore, pattern for this niche is complex.
In Brazil we still have problems regarding the industrial measurement table, so imagine when it comes to plus size bodies?
Therefore, in my opinion, draping or three-dimensional pattern is the best way to make molds for the plus size niche, as the draping technique applied to the development of these pieces provides comfort and perfect fit, as the mold is made directly on the mannequin and this dummy can be adapted with the necessary measures.
We can do this with the bourrage technique. So if you have a mannequin at home or in your studio, you can cover it until you reach the body you want: triangular body, rectangle, pear and so on, you can simulate the increase you want and then make the mold on this body.
This is the guarantee that your pattern will work, and best of all, when making the pattern in the draping you can create models that enhance the body, for example: the V-shaped model is usually very suitable for people who wear larger sizes, as it values the region and gives an idea of stretching the neck. So in this case it is time to know how to value the strengths in the body and the correct way to value them.
And if you want to complement your studies in the area, I will leave the indication of this book that talks about the subject.
It is the only book you will find on this segment and it was developed by Professor Marlene Mukai, a specialist in the field of sewing and pattern and author of several best sellers.
In this book, Professor Marlene teaches several techniques, as well as tips and special tricks for those who work with this segment.
The patterns taught in the book are for clothing models that fit the large sizes well, both classic and casual clothes, which can be adapted to several other models.
Another important detail pointed out in the book is the fabric, as there is a suitable fabric for each model. And as professor Marlene Mukai often says, fabric can enhance a piece or spoil it, so choosing the right fabric for each model is very important, as important as making the mold according to your body. Right?
I hope you enjoyed this content, a kiss and until the next post!