Today I was thinking about an interesting content to bring you and I remembered that I wanted to talk more about the course and some curiosities, one of them is why the course calls "the secrets of French draping" and what those secrets are.
When I decided to take the online course in 2020, the name was "Draping Easy", because my intention was for everyone to see draping as it really is: an easy, simple and intuitive technique.
I also wanted everyone to have access to the technique, as previously there were no tutorials on YouTube, nor was it publicized as a technique for any type of clothing.
It was a technique seen as special for those who make party fashion or for fashion students, who had access to discipline and mannequins. And I thought, wow, how many seamstresses and patternmakers, who have mannequins at home, could benefit from this technique?
Then came the idea of exploring the name secrets and which, by the way, are true secrets that are not available out there. They are the techniques I was looking for in books, blogs, YouTube... instagram of international accounts and that were not easy to find.
And these are the techniques that I will quote here and exemplify for you:
One of the initial "secrets" is about the ribbons, they are locked and not pushed with the pin. Try just pushing the ribbons on your dummy to see how it looks? Still about the ribbons it is important to choose the right size of ribbons, they must be Another detail is the ribbon, here in Brazil we don't have the appropriate shoelace, but in France there is a specific material for marking the ribbon, which is called bolduc pour patronage.
The markings must be made on the dummy, as they give the quality of the mold. The basic ones are the vertical lines, to delimit the middle of the mannequin and the horizontal ones, such as the bust line, waist line and hip line.
Another golden secret is pinning. Here in Brazil they teach you to pin completely wrong. Also in this regard, there is a correct and careful way to pin both on the dummy and afterwards, when we finish the canvas. Another misconception related to pins is the number of pins: they usually fill the screen with pins and this is not the correct way.
Another technique I've looked up in books, on the internet and everywhere is réglage. She is the final part of the draping after we take the relationship off. I particularly usually skip this step, because already at draping, doing it correctly, my molds always work out. But for those who want even more precision, the correct thing is to do this step, which is done after planning.
The mold is removed from the dummy, the lines are corrected and afterwards, if necessary, we make a kind of compensation on the screen. We split some measurements between the screens.
I only saw this technique in the course I took at the Parisian Haute Couture Union School, here in Brazil I've never heard of the technique or the term.
These are some of the main secrets that are only shared by those who had the opportunity to drink differently at the source, whether through my course, classes with Professor Ana Laura Berg, or studying directly in Paris.
I hope this content has helped you to understand a little more about the differential of this exquisite technique.
A kiss and until the next post.
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